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  • Heilelberg

  • Cologne Cathedral

  • Adoration of the Shepherds by Gerard van Honthorst

  • Siegfried and the Rhine Maidens by Albert Pinkham Ryder, circa 1890 | The Yorck Project public domain via Wikimedia Commons

  • Strasbourg

  • Illustration from The Pied Piper of Hamelin, 1888 | Edmund Evans public domain Wikimedia Commons

Overview
Itinerary
Fitness / Practicalities
Tour Director


  • Explore luminous medieval and Renaissance masterworks in Cologne alongside the majestic Gothic cathedral

  • Delve into the light and shadow of fairytales, German mythology and classic festive literature in the Rhine Valley

  • Celebrate the season through music, stories and visits to a selection of Christmas markets

"Marie-Anne was an excellent Tour Director. She was very knowledgeable in her subject, was friendly and approachable and made the subject come alive for me”

- ACE customers on 2025 tour led by Marie-Anne Mancio

Christmas hath darkness

Brighter than the blazing noon,

Christmas hath a chillness

Warmer than the heat of June

- Christina Rossetti (from Christmas Eve)

 

“Always winter, never Christmas,” opines Mr Tumnus in his famous quote from C S Lewis’s The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe, as Narnia awaits the warmth, joy and renewal of Aslan’s return. The tale pivots on an eternal dichotomy not only within Christianity but at the heart of the seasonal cycle itself, conjuring up a multitude of European traditions, stories, legends and customs that hold together the light and dark, cold and warmth, scarcity and plenty.

 

Today, in Germany’s iconic Christmas markets – which originated as ‘markets of necessity’ to help communities store up against winter – lights, music and hot drinks draw us away from the shadows and towards festive chalets. Miniature worlds of candlelight, nourishment and hospitality, the markets are a physical embodiment of darkness and light during Advent and a perfect accompaniment to our exploration of these dual themes – and the shades between them – across religion, art and architecture, music, literature and legend.

 

We will encounter divine light in Cologne, from the illuminated artistry of Stefan Lochner’s 15th century Madonna of the Rose Bower and the chiaroscuro of Renaissance masters to the light-filled interiors of the city’s Gothic cathedral, home to the Shrine of the Three Kings. Koblenz’s St Castor, Liebfrauenkirche and St Florin are more mysterious, their Romanesque features weaving and directing light through greater areas of shadow.

 

A Midwinter Celebration

Darkness and light feature across many winter tales and belief systems. The Oak and Holly Kings traditionally do battle at each solstice, one usurping the other in a neverending cycle; while ghosts and spirits haunt the year-end shadows to force reckonings and foretell redemption. Familiar symbols – from the Yule Log to Advent greenery and candlelight – combine with music-making, storytelling and feasting to create a jovial winter refuge, albeit one that can only exist in juxtaposition with the darkness that surrounds it.

 

From here, we plunge into the darkness of German fairytales, travelling through the Rhine Gorge – one of the most beautiful cruising stretches in the country – to reach the enchanting town of Rüdesheim; famed for its excellent coffee, the town includes a remarkable collection of self-playing musical instruments and an array of taverns along its famous Drosselgasse. Literature would not exist as we know it without the tension between darkness and light, and a special on-board talk will explore this timeless theme through the great mythological tales associated with the Rhine to later seasonal stories, from Shakespeare and Dickens to C S Lewis and Susan Cooper.

 

Music is uniquely capable of expressing light and shadow, to convey conflict, explore key characters’ inner workings and juxtapose moods or ideas. Through a series of illustrated talks and recitals, we will learn how composers have played with these themes through texture, key and other techniques – as well as celebrate some of the most delightful music of the season with carols and songs.

 

"Emilie was absolutely outstanding: erudite – regarding music, of course, but also on art, history, local geography and literature; a brilliant pianist; excellent communicator; and absolutely tireless in her efforts to ensure everyone enjoyed the tour. A huge asset to ACE”

- ACE customer on a 2025 tour led by Emilie Capulet

 

We emerge into the clear dawn of the Enlightenment: one of Europe’s oldest universities, Heidelberg is a celebrated centre of learning and literature, and its radiant Great Hall – part of the university buildings in the old town – stands as a testament to centuries of scholarship and discovery. In the same building, the more mischievous, sometimes darker aspects of university life can be traced in the graffitied walls of the old student prison, where culprits were held for ‘gentlemen’s offences’, including ‘loud singing in the city’, ‘inappropriate behaviour in public as a result of inebriation’, and ‘participation in illegal fencing duels’.

 

Our first overnight is spent at the four-star H+ Hotel Köln-Hürth near Cologne, conveniently located for the following day’s visits, before we embark the MS Lafayette for the duration of our cruise. The MS Lafayette is a five-anchor vessel, completely refurbished to a four-star hotel standard and featuring beautiful communal areas.

 

MS LAFAYETTE
FULL_MS-Lafayette-Cochem-Moselle-Alexandre-Sattler-Alexandre-Sattler-ORIGINAL.jpg

OUR VESSEL

MS LAFAYETTE

 

The MS Lafayette is a five-anchor vessel, completely refurbished to a four-star hotel standard in 2015 and privately chartered for ACE's Advent Cruise on the Rhine in 2026. The ship's 43 light and spacious ensuite cabins are split across two decks. All the cabins feature large windows, allowing travellers to enjoy the wonderful scenery. On the upper deck, these are full height, floor-to-ceiling, with a French balcony. The ship's beautiful communal areas are a central feature of our cruise, whether savouring a three-course meal or relaxing with an evening drink and recital or carol concert in the lounge.

 

 

Tour Director

Emilie Capulet

Emilie Capulet is an award-winning concert pianist, lecturer and musicologist.

 
Emilie Capulet, MA, MMus, PhD is an award-winning concert pianist, lecturer and musicologist. She performs worldwide in international music festivals and concert halls, and has recorded several CDs, including the first recording of the complete piano music of the French-Corsican composer Henri Tomasi (1901-1971) in a critically acclaimed double album on the Calliope label. She has been broadcast on BBC Radio 3, Radio Canada, France Musique, Radio Télévision Suisse and Bayern Klassik. Emilie studied at the Guildhall School of Music and Drama, is a Senior Fellow of the Higher Education Academy and is the BMus (Hons) Programme Leader at Trinity Laban Conservatoire of Music and Dance. She has published on many aspects of music history, has received a prestigious Leverhulme Research Fellowship and has been a Visiting Fellow at Keble College, University of Oxford.
  
 

Tour Director

Marie-Anne Mancio

Marie-Anne Mancio is an art historian, writer, experienced tour leader and Arts Society accredited lecturer.

 

 
Marie-Anne Mancio, MPhil, DPhil, is an art historian, writer, experienced tour leader and Arts Society accredited lecturer. Marie-Anne originally trained as an artist before gaining a DPhil at the University of Sussex in art and critical theory. She has written and presented courses for Tate and Dulwich Picture Gallery; writes reviews, catalogue essays and historical fiction; and is a frequent visitor to Italy. She is currently writing a book about Caravaggio and continues to work with ACE to develop and lead new tours.
 
 

Tour Director

Caroline Hopkinson-Woolley

Caroline Hopkinson-Woolley is a freelance writer who has published her fiction in anthologies and won several awards.

 

Caroline Hopkinson-Woolley, BA, has lived and worked in Cambridge for many years. Caroline gained her degree in English Language & Literature from Merton College, Oxford, before training as a lawyer. She is a freelance writer who has published her fiction in anthologies and won several awards (including Country Life’s short story competition, judged by Alexander McCall Smith, in 2013), as well as contributing to the Times Literary Supplement, Spectator, Literary Review, The Oldie, Slightly Foxed, Oxford Today, The Lady, The Tablet and, most regularly, Country Life. Caroline will lead her first tour for ACE, Children’s Literary Classics: Winnie-the-Pooh at 100, in summer 2026.

 

 

RAIL OPTION

For participants wishing to travel to and from the cruise by rail, ACE is offering an option to travel on Eurostar and TGV from London St Pancras to Cologne on December 4 (via Brussels), returning from Strasbourg at the end of the cruise (via Paris). Please note that spaces are limited and time spent on our final morning in Strasbourg will be slightly shorter compared with those taking the return flight. To reserve your place, and to enquire about options for first-class upgrades, please contact the ACE office.

 

Days
6
Cost
£2995
Tour Code
RHIN-26

Last few cabins available.

Please call us on 01223 841055 to discuss availability.

 


Included: return airfare, accommodation based on sharing a main deck twin cabin, full board cruise with unlimited wine, beer, soft drinks, tea & coffee, hotel accommodation for one night including dinner with wine, water & coffee, shore excursions & admissions, all gratuities & all taxes.


Not Included: travel insurance, rail travel option, hotel twin/double & main deck twin cabin for single use supplement £525. Upper deck supplements available upon request.

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